Sunday, May 29, 2011

The Queen City of the South (Cebu, Philippines)



The History
The history of Cebu goes way beyond 439 years ago when the island became a province at the start of the Spanish colonization. Long before that, Cebu was already the center of trade of what is now the southern Philippines, dealing with traders from China, Malaysia, Japan, India, Burma and other parts of Asia. Cebu already had an organized social structure before the Spaniards came--- with small groups headed by a datu who served as leader.  Aside from the datu, there were free men called timawa and then the olipon. Spanish reports called the role of an olipon as dependent rather than a slave, because of the absence of violence and harshness notable in European slavery. People in Cebu then were called pintados because men were heavily tattooed. Lavish ornaments such as gold jewelry were used not only by women but also men..

Excited to see the Queen City of the South.
Cebu Provincial Capitol
In 1521 Ferdinand Magellan and his troops arrived in Cebu, were warmly welcomed by Rajah Humabon’s community which converted to Christianity. But Magellan was not received well at the island of Mactan, where he was slain by the local chieftain, Lapulapu. Cebu remained free until Miguel Lopez de Legazpi arrived in 1566. It was then the start of the transformation of Cebu’s civilization under the Spanish regime: Catholic churches were built, priests ruled communities alongside civil leaders, watchtowers were scattered along the island to guard against Moro raids. On the economic and cultural side, fiesta celebrations were embraced, new agricultural products were introduced, royal decrees led to commercial and agricultural expansion and the establishment of elementary schools in every municipality.

One of Cebu's Pride: Danggit!
The rest of Cebu’s history was then tied to events in the country and the rest of the world: World War 11, Japanese occupation, postwar reconstruction, Philippine independence, then the declaration of Martial Law, and so forth. But amid all these events, history has witnessed the valiant spirit of the Cebuanos--- principled and resilient, exercising hard work and high standards of morality and professionalism that have since made Cebu a cut above the rest.



Famous Landmarks

Fuerza de San Pedro 
Fuerza de San Pedro is a military defense structure, built by Spanish and indigenous Cebuano labourers under the command of Spanish conquistadorMiguel López de Legazpi and the Spanish Government in Cebu. It is located in the area now called Plaza Indepedencia, in the Pier Area of Cebu CityPhilippines. The smallest, oldest triangular bastion fort in the country was built in 1738 to repel Muslim raiders. In turn, it served as a stronghold for Filipino revolutionaries near the end of the 19'th Century. This served as the nucleus of the first Spanish settlement in the Philippines.

A pose at Fuerza de San Pedro.
The fort is triangular in shape, with two sides facing the sea and the third side fronting the land. The two sides facing the sea were defended with artillery and the front with a strong palisade made of wood. The three bastions were named La Concepción (SW); Ignacio de Loyola (SE), and San Miguel (NE). It has a total inside area of 2,025 sq. meters. The walls are 20 feet (6.1 m) high, 8 feet (2.4 m) thick and the towers are 30 feet (9.1 m) high from the ground level. The circumference is 1,248 feet (380 m). The sides are of unequal lengths and the one fronting the city is where one may find entry into the Fort. Fourteen cannons were mounted in their emplacements most of which are still there today. Work first started on May 8, 1565 with Miguel Lopéz de Legazpi breaking ground.

Excited for our Cebu-Bohol Trip.
Magellan’s Cross
Magellan's Cross is a Christian cross planted by Portuguese, and Spanish explorers as ordered by Ferdinand Magellan upon arriving in Cebu in the Philippines on April 8, 1521. This cross is housed in a chapel next to the Basilica Minore del Santo Niño on Magallanes Street (Magallanes being the Spanish name of Magellan), just in front of the city hall of Cebu City. A sign below the cross describes the original cross is encased inside the wooden cross that is found in the center of the chapel. This is to protect the original cross from people who chipped away parts of the cross for souvenir purposes or in the belief that the cross possesses miraculous powers. Some people, however, believe that the original cross had been destroyed or had disappeared after Magellan's death, and the cross is a replica that was planted there by the Spaniards after they successfully colonized the Philippines. Magellan's Cross is a symbol of Cebu, and the chapel's image can be found in its city seal. It is also seen as the symbol of Roman Catholicism in the Philippines.

The rest of the group at Magellan's Cross.

Basilica Minore del Santo Niño
The Minor Basilica of the Santo Niño or Basilica Minore del Santo Niño is a 16th century church in Cebu City in the Philippines. It was built purportedly on the spot where the image of the Santo Niño, a sculpture depicting the Holy Child Jesus found by Spanish explorers in 1565 preserved in a burned wooden box which was left behind during the 1521 Magellan expedition. The church of Santo Niño de Cebu was founded by an Augustinian priest, Andrés de Urdaneta on April 28, 1565. The first church structure was built out of earth, hard wood and nipa in 1566 ordered by Friar Diego de Herrera. In 1735, Fernando Valdés y Tamon, the Governor of Cebu, ordered the church to be constructed of hard stone, which was built in the same spot were the previous church stood. Construction was completed in 1739. In 1965, during the fourth centenary of the Christianization of the Philippines, Pope Paul VI elevated the church to the rank of minor basilica. The Basilica remains under the care of the Order of St. Augustine.

At Basilica de Sto Nino.





Magellan’s Shrine
The Magellan Shrine is a large memorial tower erected in honor of the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan. The spot is believed to be the area was Magellan was killed in the Battle of Mactan on 1521, Philippines. The monument measures 30 metres high and it is located in the place of Punta Engaño, Mactan Island, Cebu.









Cebu Taoist Temple
Built in 1972, the Cebu Taoist Temple is located in Beverly Hills Subdivision in Cebu City, Philippines. The temple was built by Cebu's substantial Chinese community. With an elevation of 300 meters above sea level, the temple is a towering, multi-tiered, multi-hued attraction accessible by three separate winding routes. Unlike the neighboring Phu Sian Temple, the Taoist temple is open to the worshipers and non-worshipers alike. A ritual among devotees is where one prays to the gods to grant one's wish. The ritual includes washing of hands, going inside the chapel barefoot and dropping two blocks of wood. If the blocks of wood are both face up then one could make a wish. If not then it is not yet the time for one's wish to be granted and one has to come to the temple some other time.
The temple is the center of worship for Taoism, the religion which follows the teachings of the ancient Chinese philosopher, Lao Tze. Another ritual among Taoist devotees, which is done during Wednesdays and Sundays, is the climbing of its 81 steps (representing the 81 chapters of Taoism scriptures) to light joss sticks and have their fortune read by the monks. The entrance to the temple is a replica of the Great Wall of China. The temple includes a chapel, a library, a souvenir shop and a wishing well. The spacious balconies offer a scenic view of the downtown Cebu.

Crowne Regency - Cebu

Edge Coaster Ride and Skywalk Adventure
You can’t dare miss it when you are in Cebu! Experience an extraordinary, close-to-flying adventure with the Crown Regency Hotel and Towers Edge Coaster. Crown Regency is located along Osmeña Boulevard, Cebu City. It is hailed as the tallest hotel tower in the Philippines. The first of its kind in the whole world – an amusement ride installed at the edge of a hotel building – riding the Edge Coaster is definitely a unique experience of mixed fear, excitement, and fun as you feel like floating or falling off from Cebu skies. 

With the amazing view from the top, you would seem to have toured the entire Cebu City during the duration of your ride. What’s better news is that the coaster is just one of the facilities of the Sky Adventure Experience project of Crown Regency. Other features of the project are the Sky bar, Sky Walk, Sky Lounge, and soon, the Insanity Orbit. Now that’s looking at Cebu in a different perspective – literally. The Crown Regency Edge Coaster is definitely the ride of your life. Found at the 38th floor directly above the Sky Walk, the interactive ride called Edge Coaster is the stuff man-on-the-street daredevils would instantly consider. It is the first ride of its kind in the world. Think about it: the Edge Coaster moves around the edge of the building and tilts 55 degrees. Give it a try and feel like you’re hanging or in some instances, about to literally fall off your seat. Of course, the riders are provided with joysticks, so they could control the tilt level.

Gettin' ready for a breath-taking adventure!
Located at the 37th floor of the Crown Regency Cebu, the Sky Walk Extreme lets thrill-seekers walk around the edge of the building, incidentally the tallest hotel structure in the Philippines. This is the first in the country and the 360-degree view is just awesome. It passed international safety standards, so don’t fear. The platform where Sky walkers would step on looked intimidating, but they immediately, well, killed any more morbid thoughts that could arise.  There is a harness that will be strapped very securely around you. Even if you fall off, which is a long shot, you’re not going down. You’ll just hang for a while. Besides, you won’t be doing the Crown Regency Cebu Sky Walk Extreme alone. There are guides who will walk along with you.

All geared up! c'mon!
We thought it was quiet boring! Kiddin' :)
When we finally stepped out on the platform and began our walk, we were instantly seized with a little — just a little — sense of panic. Remember, you have someone here suffering from acrophobia. Our guides humored us during our first few steps and very efficiently distracted this moment of agitation by pointing out the breathtaking view that was set before us. Our jaws dropped at the magnificent scenery. We could see not just the whole of Cebu but even beyond. You want something as far as the eyes could see? The Crown Regency Cebu Sky Walk Extreme made sure ours did. We got too busy taking in the experience that we absolutely forgot about our fear. The adventure stroll turned out to be both comforting and exciting. The walk around the building took around 15 minutes to finish, and our stunts included sitting on the edge of the platform while our feet dangled in the air, dancing on the ledge, and being dared to look 37 floors down. Who knew that walking would give such an adrenalin rush?

And yes, I survived!
Piggin' out after the adrenalin rush.




God’s Little Paradise (Bohol, Philippines) Part 2

Since Bohol was just a ferry-ride away from the island of Cebu, we also visited the place (an overnight stay actually). This was the 2nd time I’ve been here and this was exactly a year after my first visit. And since I’m familiar already with the place, I took the lead to tour my friends around Bohol. Though this was already my 2nd time to be here, I was still amazed by the beauty of this little paradise! We stayed at Dumaluan Beach Resort found along the beachfront of Panglao Island and just next to Bohol Beach Club.

Too much effort, isn't it?

Blood Compact Site
Our first stop was at the Blood Compact Site. Essentially, the blood compact was forged between these two chieftains for the purpose of creating cordial and diplomatic relations between the two very different kingdoms – it was a political event.  In commemoration of this historical event, a life-size diorama made up of pure bronze is erected just few meters from the exact location where the ritual was made.  The statues depict what happened during that commemorative event, and in a way by serve as an evidence of Bohol’s rich history.

Cheers!
Baclayon Church
The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Baclayon is considered to be one of the oldest churches in the Philippines. It is one of the best preserved Jesuit build churches in the region; although in the 19th century, the Augustinian Recollects added a modern facade and a number of stone buildings that now surround the church. Although Baclayon was the first seat of the Spanish Jesuit missionaries, fear of Moro marauders soon forced them to move their headquarters more inland, to Loboc. Only in 1717, Baclayon became a parish, and construction of a new church commenced. Some 200 native forced laborers constructed the church from coral stones, which they took from the sea, cut into square blocks, and piled on to each other. They used bamboo to move and lift the stones in position, and used the white of a million eggs as to cement them together. The current building was completed in 1727. The church obtained a large bell in 1835. In the Baclayon church is a dungeon, which was used to punish natives who violated the rules of the Roman Catholic Church.

Magnificent it is! Baclayon Church's interior.
Next to the church is the old convent, which also houses a small museum with centuries-old religious relics, artifacts and other antiquities, dating back to the 16th century. Included in the collection are an ivory statue of the crucified Christ looking towards heaven; a statue of the Blessed Virgin, said to be presented by Queen Catherine of Aragon; relics of St. Ignatius of Loyola, old gold embroidered ecclesiastical vestments, books with carabao skin covers, and librettos of church music written in Latin on sheep skins. Here you can also find the cuadro paintings made by the Filipino painter Liberato Gatchalian in 1859. Baclayon is some 6 km east of Tagbilaran. Catch a bus or jeepney in Tagbilaran, going into the direction of Baclayon. You may also find a tricycle willing to bring you there.

I love Tarsiers!
The Philippine Tarsier
The Philippine Tarsier (Tarsius syrichta or Carlito syrichta), known locally as the Maumag in Cebuano/Visayan and Mamag in Luzon, is an endangered species of tarsier endemic to the Philippines.  It is found in the southeastern part of the archipelago, particularly in the islands of Bohol Island, Samar Island, Leyte Island and Mindanao. It is a member of the approximately 45 million year old family Tarsiidae, whose name is derived from its elongated "tarsus" or ankle bone. The Philippine Tarsier is a shy nocturnal animal that leads a mostly hidden life, asleep during the day and only active to look for food during the night. During the day, it sleeps in dark hollows close to the ground, near the trunks of trees and shrubs deep in the impenetrable bushes and forests. They only become active at night, and even then, with their much better sight and amazing ability to maneuver around trees, are very well able to avoid humans. It is arboreal and is a vertical clinger and leaper, habitually clinging vertically to trees and are capable of leaping from branch to branch. The Philippine Tarsier is solitary. However, it is found to have either monogamous or polygamous mating system

Loboc River, Bohol
The Loboc River Cruise
The Loboc River is now one of the major destinations of tourists, local and foreigners alike. Located in the Municipality of Loboc, a mere 24 kilometers away from Tagbilaran City, the winding river plays host to cruisers on board small bancas or floating restaurants. Visitors are treated to a vista of lush tropical vegetation such as nipa palms, coconut trees, banana groves, and bushes. With the tourism fever, the floating restaurants were envisioned providing tourists with a 1st class dining experience on board floating restaurants. The floating vessels are made up of a covered platform on top of two large outrigger boats which are joined together. The boats can accommodate up to 50 people. Most of the floating restaurants treat their guests with Boholano songs played by in-boat bands during the cruise. The trip winds up the river and ends at the Busay Falls which is only one and a half meter at most. Here, the guests are treated to rondalla music by a local rondalla group housed under a floating cottage.
A rondalla experience.
The last time I danced Tinikling was when I'm in grade school.
The Man-made Forest
The Bilar Forest is a man-made mahogany forest stretching in a two-kilometer stretch of densely planted Mahogany trees located in the border of Loboc and Bilar towns. Before and after this man-made forest are the naturally grown forests of Loboc and Bilar which are thick with a kaleidoscope of green foliage, different species of trees and giant ferns lining the road. The man-made forest stands out because of the uniformity in height of the big trees, the spread of its branches, thickness and design of leaves. Seedlings abound around the older trees. Trunks, some thick and others just a few months old, grow resplendently straight up towards the sky which is obscured by the branches and the thick leaves. When you enter the forest, one will feel the abrupt change in temperature, especially during summer or hot season. It is hot outside the forested area, but once under the overhanging trees, one is refreshed by the cool breeze. This mountain area seldom sees the sun shine and most often than not, it rains here. Local folks attribute these to the presence of the dense forest.

Nature at its best!
The Chocolate Hills
The Chocolate Hills are probably Bohol's most famous tourist attraction. They look like giant mole hills, or as some say, women's breasts, and remind us of the hills in a small child's drawing. Most people who first see pictures of this landscape can hardly believe that these hills are not a man-made artifact. However, this idea is quickly abandoned, as the effort would surely surpass the construction of the pyramids in Egypt. The chocolate hills consist of are no less than 1268 hills. They are very uniform in shape and mostly between 30 and 50 meters high. They are covered with grass, which, at the end of the dry season, turns chocolate brown. From this color, the hills derive their name. At other times, the hills are green, and the association may be a bit difficult to make.

One of God's greatest creations.

Legend has it that the hills came into existence when two giants threw stones and sand at each other in a fight that lasted for days. When they were finally exhausted, they made friends and left the island, but left behind the mess they made. For the more romantically inclined is the tale of Arogo, a young and very strong giant who fell in love with an ordinary mortal girl called Aloya. After she died, the giant Arogo cried bitterly. His tears then turned into hills, as a lasting proof of his grief. However, up to this day, even geologists have not reached consensus on how they were formed. The most commonly accept theory is that they are the weathered formations of a kind of marine limestone on top of an impermeable layer of clay. If you climb the 214 steps to the top of the observation hill near the complex, you can read this explanation on a bronze plaque.


I was actually looking for the queen bee.
Bohol Bee Farm
The Bohol Bee Farm is a very cozy and relaxing place on Panglao Island. Owner and Chef Vicky Wallace prepares delicious meals from organically-grown vegetables on her farm--from squash muffins, vegetable lasagna to her specially-brewed coffee from roasted corn and wild berries. She rents her chalet-styled home to guests who want to enjoy the peace and serenity of having the entire farm to themselves. This is certainly a place apart: not only is it a wonderful relaxing place for visitors, it also tries to contribute to the local community and the environment. Everything they do at Bohol Bee Farm is geared towards encouraging and inspiring the farmers to practice Organic farming. They don't need to spend for costly conventional fertilizers, nor use harmful pesticides in their farms. Basic composting and companion planting are alternatives they offer in their stead. They also introduce and teach them different livelihood activities they can pursue in tandem with farming, and assist them in marketing their products to make such activities sustainable. We highly value the principle of giving back to our communities, and to society, in general, the benefits we derived from it. After all, their one true gift to their selves, and ultimately to others, lies not in what they have accumulated for their own, but how much of it they shared with them. Furthermore, they ardently support an agricultural development that leads to healthier soils and diverse agricultural ecosystems, conditions that help promote a better environment. One that they hope would be populated by a happier and healthier people.

Must try! Malunggay ice cream ftw!
And we didn't forget to catch a jump shot in Bohol.


A tempting shot (for Bench billboard).

Indeed, this trip was a one-of-a-kind adventure. As 2nd to my scheduled trip this year (because I planned to travel out-of-town at least every other month), it did kick my ass! The rich culture and history of Cebu and the stunning cairns of Bohol were really a relief from all anxiety. The fun-filled group of friends namely Ate Anj, Kuya Fred, Kuya Nico, Amben, Rax, Bryan, Adi and Joy, definitely doubled the exuberance.



Going back to Manila. At Mactan Airport.

“The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a foreign land.”  ~ G.K. Chesterton

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Kung Hei Fat Choi (A Tour in Ongpin St., Binondo, Manila)

Chinese New Year starts with the New Moon on the first day of the New Year and ends on the full moon 15 days later. The 15th day of the New Year is called the Lantern Festival, which is celebrated at night with lantern displays and children carrying lanterns in a parade. The Chinese calendar is based on a combination of lunar and solar movements. The lunar cycle is about 29.5 days. In order to "catch up" with the solar calendar the Chinese insert an extra month once every few years (seven years out of a 19-yearcycle). This is the same as adding an extra day on leap year. This is why, according to the solar calendar, the Chinese New Year falls on a different date each year. New Year's Eve and New Year's Day are celebrated as a family affair, a time of reunion and thanksgiving. The celebration was traditionally highlighted with a religious ceremony given in honor of Heaven and Earth, the gods of the household and the family ancestors. The sacrifice to the ancestors, the most vital of all the rituals, united the living members with those who had passed away. Departed relatives are remembered with great respect because they were responsible for laying the foundations for the fortune and glory of the family.


The Manila Chinatown


Year 2011 is the Year of the Rabbit by the Chinese calendar. This was the first time I experienced celebrating Chinese New Year when I was invited by a Chinese friend named Jack to spend the Chinese New Year with our friends Bryan, Oneal and Robin in Chinatown, Manila. We had a tour around Ongpin in Binondo. Observed how Filipino-Chinese celebrated the occasion.





Binondo Church FTW!


Ongpin St., Binondo, Manila
Binondo remains the authentic Chinese enclave of Manila and Ongpin Street, running centrally through it, is the showcase for all things Chinese and traditional. Winding along for ten jam-packed city blocks, Ongpin is glitz and glitter, traditional and exotic and an assault on the eardrums.This happy Chinaman’s mishmash offers up everything you never thought you needed but could not find in shopping malls: jewelry shops selling nothing but high-carat gold, Chinese fast food cheek-by-jowl with restaurants that consider a twelve-course “lauriat” lunch frugal, aquaria of live fish and crustaceans you can dig your chopsticks into a scant quarter-hour later, modern hardware shops alongside traditional herbal drug stores, Chinese fireworks, CD’s of Chinese movies, and bakeries. The history of Ongpin Street dates back in the 1890’s. It is named after Don Roman Ongpin, a Chinese businessman who gained fame for his financial support of the “katipunero” rebels during the successful uprising of 1896 against Spain.





Tryin' a Chinese ritual.


To Filipinos from anywhere in the metropolis, a Chinese feast is enough reason to return to Ongpin Street despite the turtle-paced traffic and scarce parking downtown. There may be a handful of Chinese restaurants scattered around the city that are faithful to regional cooking back on the mainland but the best and most authentic remain those in Ongpin. Every eatery is an excellent choice for whatever budget you may have. The dumpling wrappers have just the right translucent thickness when cooked, the fillings delicious and every hakao has a good-sized shrimp embellishing it. The steamed buns (local term: “siopao”) are superb. Don’t forget to try fried siopao and fresh juice from sugar cane!



With Bryan, Robin and Oneal.

 
A glass of green tea at Cafe Mezzanine.



After a tiring walk along Ongpin, we found a cozy resto were we rested while we were watching local news coverage of the Chinese New Year with ABS-CBN’s Jeff Canoy and Nina Corpuz. Cafe Mezzanine is a cozy coffee shop which is being maintained by an official of the East Binondo Volunteer Firemen Association. This explains why the firemen often dine here and you can even see a few of their helmets hanging on the walls. We ordered their flavored green tea here while prepping ourselves up for the next walking tour ahead.